mrsbrown: (Default)
I spent too much time yesterday watching youtube videos about rocket stoves.

then I spent too much time looking for good pictures online of boiling coppers and tudor kitchens.

and now I've finally finished the blog post that puts it all together.

http://saravandenhove.wordpress.com/2014/05/24/boiling-house-and-rocket-stoves/
mrsbrown: (tent)
In France the communal bread ovens are called four banal and, based on the memory of people who have used them, they are operated by each family in turn. I'm a bit confused by the concept that people would only have access once every three weeks - does that mean they would cook bread to last three weeks?

Here's what I'm thinking about for Festival;

Build an oven in close proximity to the Abbotsford campsite
Oven to fit at least 10 loaves, maybe 15 - kissing ok
Build a heavy weight (100mm x 100mm timbers) base to hold the oven off the ground
Fire the oven once or twice a day
Get people to bring firewood (the right sort- faggots!) in payment
Set up the roster based on the number of participants
Make a wooden peel
bring door, suitable mop, and hoe like implement. Also some way to safely transport coals (brazier on wheels?)
Encourage people to get a basket and some cloth to rise and transport bread. Try to find suitable baskets in op-shops etc.

Floured boards are also OK, but terracotta plant pot bases aren't because you can't fit as much bread into the oven.
organise kneading suitable table or trough on legs?
sort out flour storage suitable for 3 loaves per day for 5 days, 4 cups flour per loaf at 150g per cup = 9kg plus a bit, say 12kg.
Maybe this? could also solve the dough trough issue!
It would be great to do buns for sale on Sat morning (pay for extra bricks?) but may need registration for this and I'm not sure I can be arsed. (Just asked market coordinator, they're "non hazardous" food and will be cooked and eaten immediately so may not need to comply with all this)




mrsbrown: (Default)
We leave for the US on Tuesday, I have a long list of things I want to do - some for the trip and some for leaving the household in shape to cope without us for 3 weeks. 

Having started the "clean the kitchen task", with a side trip into "make bread for lunch", I'm stuffed and having a sit down.  I think I'll need to persuade someone to go and get those antibiotics I persuaded the doctor into giving me a prescription for after having a stuffed up nose for more than a week.

Anyway, I made a sloppy bread dough and left it to rise and glutenise (no kneading required).  Then 2 hours later I sprinkled some flour on top and used my bread scraper to get the dough off the bowl and turn the ball to cover the entire mass with flour.  then I thought, "what am I going to do at Festival when I want to make bread like this?"  Did they have medieval dough scrapers?

I have a plastic one, but it looks like you can also get metal ones with wooden handles.

vs  

A summary of 19th C sources refers to a dough cutter and dough scraper.  There's a lso a picture of a scraper from


Various utensils used by French bakers, late 18th century.
fig. 6. Fire rake
fig. 8. Swabber or scuffle
fig. 10. Wooden peel
fig. 11. Scraper
fig. 12. Iron shovel to draw out coals

(From Diderot, Encyclopédie, I, section on "Boulanger.")

The same source has this description of a dough knife or cutter: Edlin's 1805 Treatise, "usually of the size of a large carver, with a round point and blunt, like a painter's pallet knife.

OMG!!!  I found a site that has historical tools catalogued by shape, profession and name

The dough scrapers they have look really useful when you're dealing with a lot of dough in a dough trough, but aren't the shape I've been finding useful.


Looking a bit further, I find a "dough grater"  (the pictures include the link to the page that has a photo of the actual object)

Hmm, You can also get a scraper in what seems to be the "modern" shape in wood;


More to come, saving some random awesome links in the meantime;

A real, 17th century portable oven, with measurements.


A collection o images that look like a recreation/used Tudor kitchen
, with a lovely bread oven and possible copper combo.

Normandy kitchen!

mrsbrown: (Default)
Window shutter in France.  Nice hinges! Simple woodwork.



Another simple construction, big hinges.

 

Obviously, I need to find some other and better sources.  Another day!





mrsbrown: (Default)
We finished the kitchen frame and hearth yesterday. It was very exciting and, as soon as I've solved some technical issues, I hope to post pictures and video.

Today the CFA inspected the property for the fire permit for next weekend. It is a condition of the permit that we not light a fire in the kitchen building. We CAN light a fire in the firepit.  This is disappointing.

One of the things the CFA passed onto astemudfoot is that the entire building needs to be clad in "non-combustible" materials in order for us to use it as a kitchen in the fire season.  Based on my research below, I think he's wrong.

Here's my revised research on what's involved in making the thing legal. It was nice to note that when I started researching the requirements I realised that I had already read most of them as part of the design process. However there have been some changes since Black Saturday.

BUILDING CODE COMPLIANCE

The building is classified as a class 10a structure under the BCA. Class 10a — a non-habitable building being a private garage, carport, shed, or the like.

The fireplace has to comply with the following (from the Building Code of Australia):

3.7.3.2  Open fireplace construction
An open fireplace must be constructed as follows (also see Figure 3.7.3.1):
(a)  All masonry must be constructed in accordance with Part 3.3.
(b)  The front hearth must be constructed of stone, concrete, masonry or similar material so that—
(i)  it extends not less than 300 mm beyond the front of the fireplace opening and not less than 150 mm beyond each side of that opening; and
(ii)  its upper surface does not slope away from the back hearth.
(c)  The base of the back hearth must be constructed of stone, concrete, masonry or similar material and any combustible flooring or framing members must be situated not less than 150 mm from its upper surface.
(d) The fireplace rear and side walls up to a height of 300 mm above the underside of the arch or lintel—
(i)  must be constructed in 2 separate leaves of solid masonry with an overall thickness not less than 180 mm thick, excluding any cavity; and
(ii)  must not consist of concrete block masonry in the construction of the inner leaf; and
(iii)  must be constructed of masonry units with a net volume, excluding cored and similar holes, not less than 75% of their gross volume, measured on the overall rectangular shape of the units, and with an actual thickness of not less than 100 mm.
(e)  The fireplace must be constructed on footings complying with 3.2.5.5.

3.2.5.5  Footings for fireplaces on Class A and S sites
(a)    Fireplaces must be supported on a pad footing—
(i)    150 mm thick for single storey (one trafficable floor and a wall height not more than 4.2 m) construction; and
(ii)    200 mm thick for 2 storey (two trafficable floors and a wall height not more than 8 m) construction; and
(iii)    reinforced top and bottom with SL72 mesh; and
(iv)    extending 300 mm past the edges of the masonry except for any edge flush with the outer wall.
(b)    The pad footing may form an integral part of the slab.


BUSHFIRE RESISTANCE
Australia has a new classification system for determining the risk associated with bushfire.  The summary is here.   We don't have to comply because the building is a non-habitable building.  However, it does refer to "naturally bushfire resistant timbers".  With a bit of digging, these are timbers with a density of at least 650kg/m3.

Information from here says that the density of the Monteray Cypress we have used is 540kg/m3.

SUMMARY
With some minor changes we can make the kitchen fireplace comply with the BCA.  We need to line the inglenook with 10mm of cement sheet.   We could build some sort of construction to reduce the size of the fireplace slightly and increase the distance of the official fire place to greater than 150mm from the wall timbers - the boiling structure?  Alternatively, we could remove 150mm of the hearth from each wall.

I like to think that if we can show the CFA that the fireplace complies with the requirements of the BCA, then we should be allowed to light a fire in it.  This might be easiest with a report from a building surveyor.

 
mrsbrown: (Default)
A colection of quick links:

http://www.iadb.co.uk/wgate/main/brick.php

http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/adsdata/arch-769-1/ahds/dissemination/pdf/vol35/35_086_103.pdf

Photos someone took as research for their lego creation from the virginia Frontier Culture Museum.  It's a german barn and they took photos of the inside of the tile roof, the kitchen and a breakaway of the wattle and daub.  Photos at the bottom of the page here.

Next week, when things are open again, I'll have a better look for a modern tile that is medieval enough.  Otherwise, we'll have to make our own.


mrsbrown: (Default)
I collected the research for sjkasabi's christmas present and put it in a private post, which I've just unlocked.

I just updated my phone plan. Telstra aren't advertising it but if you're on a $10 data plan you might want to give them a ring and update your data allowance from 200MB to 1GB.  The phone no is 132200.  Doushkasmum and sjkasabi, I'm looking at you.

Coming home from staying at a house that doesn't have your normal clutter is a eye opener.  You arrive and realise that the thing you've been putting up with is unacceptable and really easy to fix.  It's important to move on this inclination quickly, before the apathy moves back in.  Here's what I want to change:

1. I should buy proper, grownup furniture that will fit all of my clothes in it so I don't need to store them on the floor.  I also realised that I've always wanted antique furniture so maybe I should just buy it?  It's not like I'm a poor student anymore.

2. I don't know what else, but I think I'm going to buy a new mattress for my sofa bed.  It will be more conservational than just buying a new sofa bed.  OTOH, a quick look at the IKEA website suggests a mattress pad may be the way to go.  I see an IKEA visit in my near future.

I want to write the list of things to do.  Nothing makes for justifiable procrastination like writing a list, but I've already written it.

I'll have to make do with the list of stuff I need to arrange before we head to the kitchen erection next weekend:

arrange childcare?
source/ get a quote for terracotta shingles
resolve batten spacing to suit the shingles/tiles we decide to use
arrange delivery of 90x45 undressed KD hardwood to site - I'll get lime delivered at the same time.

And here's what else I'd like to cram into this week;

sleep and lying around on the internet
source books to read (yuletide might be an acceptable substitute).  Also more Temeraire and Tiffany Aching.
making a tent - I refuse to start until Wednesday, and 6 hours per day is all I want to do.
An IKEA visit (see above)
2 steps towards a tidier, more organised house.







mrsbrown: (Default)
Because I'm certainly exploding with the things I _need_ to do RIGHT NOW!  That's why I got out of bed at 6.30am.

In the interests of keeping my living room ceiling free of organic matter, here they are;

Mark where the toggles go on the tent I need to sew tonight.
  Start at the corners and work inwards - only 25mm out
Make the list of tasks for Kitchen building on Saturday and enthuse people to come and help
Work out how many guys I want on my new tent, document it and then work out how much rope we'll need to buy.  New wordpress post here.
Do about half an hour of work before I travel to work this morning, to make up for leaving early on Friday
Work out how to help Sneetch through his "oh my god I put off doing my homework and now it's all due in 4 days" angst
Decide if it would be useful to pour a slab for the kitchen hearth
Make the Surveying Expedition booking form

And then we get to the ones that have been there pretty constantly for the past few weeks;

Write an angsty post about the way my brain's working at  the moment
Clear the SEP corner back to something that doesn't attract more stuff
Rearrange the books in my hallway
Do a house maintenance/renovation item each weekend
Sort out the empty bedroom so Sneetch can move into it, Rose can move into Sneetch's room and the music studio can be set up.
work out what to do about the enormous floor slope in the empty bedroom and hall
Find a way to get mr-bassman to do some of these tasks, without him calling them "honey-doos" and failing to do them.

Is there a website out there that you can put your list into, with categories, and then you can nominate a category and the website will give you a random, single to-do item.  Something like [personal profile] quatrefoil 's jar with post-it notes? I want several jars:  5 min task, 30min task, 1 hr task, house renovation task, hobby task.  That way, I could write the renovation list of doom and avoid getting overwhelmed by it.  I guess it might need some level of dependencies, but that could be developed later.


mrsbrown: (Default)
Yesterday I built a lime mortar based garden retaining wall.  Here are my notes;

Last weekend I mixed lime with water.  I'm having difficulty with this, because all of the references I read say that you have to use hydraulic lime, not hydrated lime.  But somewhere, I've read that you can make hydraulic lime by soaking hydrated lime in water to make lime putty/hydraulic lime.

OTOH the wikipedia article suggests that using hydrated lime to make lime putty results in a mix that's not as strong as lime putty that's never been hydrated lime and gets hard with a different chemical process. (further reading suggests that hydrated lime that's been sitting in water for a while doesn't have this problem)

I used hydrated lime (Calcium hydroxide) + water (H2O) = Lime Putty (Calcium Oxide)

I mixed 2 buckets of sand from Rose's sandpit with 2/3 of a bucket of lime.  I was going to make a 2:1 mix but changed my mind and made a 3:1 mix.  I need to find a way to exclude more of the water, because it made a very runny mix.

Then I started laying my wall.  This article says that you need to keep the mortar wet, including wetting all the surfaces, covering with wet burlap and wetting 3-7 times per day.  I wet my first two layers of bricks, but the mortar mix was so sloppy that I gave up and let the bricks absorb some of the moisture from the mortar.

Most of the mortar appeared dry and hard within a couple of hours.  Today the wall seems to be strong enough to stand on.  The first mortar I laid is grey and the later mortar (that perhaps dried faster) is white.  It wasn't very strong against a sideways kick, but it might be better next week.

Today's  reading suggests that a ratio of 6:1 has also been used.  Maybe I'll have a play with that later today.  When it's stopped raining and I feel better.

Hooray!  The best and most definitive and trustworthy for Australian building products article is here.  I am now comfortable with my process.  Also, really glad that the lime we have in Ballarat has been sitting in water for nearly 12 months. 

Notes for next week;
bring eye protection (others should too)
bring waterproof gloves.  (others should too)
bring a course brush for wetting bricks with water.
bring stuff for a string line
order clean "sharp" sand
Wear warm clothes



mrsbrown: (Default)

Quantities
1000 bricks need approx 0.6m3 bricklaying sand and 10no 20kg bags cement (when using conventional mortar)

Mortar
Conventional mortar mix with lime seems to be 1:2:9 cement, lime, sand. If we just substituted our lime for the 1 cement, then we could expect a ratio of 1 lime to 3 sand, which agrees with the ratio suggested on wikipedia.

Lime putty mortars benefit from mixing with sand and then leaving covered for a few weeks, before being "knocked up" to re-plasticise them.

Lime mortar has a low compressive strength and when using it outside or exposed it is usual to add a pozzolan which reacts with the lime to make it harder. I begin to think that we might be better off using cement (modern pozzolan) and then rendering with limewash, so it can't be seen.

Here's a MSDS for Lime putty. It looks like lime mortar would be more corrosive than cement mortar, but you wouldn't wan't either to stay on your skin for long, so gloves are probably a good idea.

Timing
When using lime mortar, you need to build 1m at a time and then leave to cure for 3-5 days.

Structural Design
The single brick,  3m wide and 2.4m high wall with a return at each end is certainly strong enough to stay up as a free-standing wall.

I'm not so sure about putting the roof structure in timber on it.  It needs to hold up about 7.2m of timber plus roofing tiles.  That's about 300kg  plus what ever wind loading I need to allow for.

Actually, I'm not sure the single brick wall is a particularly medieval building style.  There is an English and a Flemish double thickness wall style that I need to find out more about.

Structurally, I'm also more comfortable using a double brick wall, hmmm.  We may need more bricks, but there's no hurry - we can't build faster than 1m at a time.  I'm inclined to build to 1.2m at a time, so we only have two building weekends to do the wall.

Other stuff
I'm currently reading "Cooking and Dining in Medieval England"  and getting interested in both stoves and pastry ovens.  There's a nifty construction that was used to concentrate the fire under the equivalent of the FOC.  And, after watching the cooking at Surveying Expedition, it looks like a dedicated copper kettle spot, with its own fire would be useful, and so would a raised area to use with charcoal and cook smaller dishes.  The Tudor kitchen at the Weald and Downland museum includes a small oven and a copper.  I only have a fire space 3m long and 75cm wide, but maybe the oven could be placed outside that.

Maybe I'm trying to do too much with this building and I should go back to my initial purpose - an inside fireplace so we can cook even when there's a total fire ban.

mrsbrown: (Default)
I just watched a marathon 3 episodes of "Gourmet Farmer"  Now to get out there and do the trendy foody thing - inner city style.

I'll go to the local market and I hope to buy tomatoes and strawberries. We've discovered that dried strawberries taste amazing when cooked in porridge.  Except that means the box of strawberries I processed in January (that filled half a preserving jar) are rapidly dwindling.  Based on our recent consumption, I'll need to process at least 4 boxes of strawberries.  Even better, Rose is still suspicious of dried srrawberries and refuses to eat them - more for us!

One of the major contributors to the waste that goes out of our house is tins of tomatoes.  If I make salsa it will taste better AND reduce our waste output.

Its interesting to notice that our waste has reduced to the point that we can identify the big items.  Making an effort about each of them in turn is sort of fun.

Other minor tasks for my weekend include;

Sanding the plaster in sjkasabi's laundry and doing the next coat.
Doing some more woodwork for the kitchen building
Working out if a single skin brick wall is sufficient for the fireplace and wall structure of the kitchen. (that's why I've been putting off the bricklaying)
Working out if we need to build the pastry oven at the same time as the wall of the kitchen.
Maybe going to the Werribee Zoo to see splodgenoodles and listen to mr-bassman play.
mrsbrown: (Default)
We didn't buy ceiling fans :(  I miss them already.

We didn't rearrange the TV corner, or buy a TV.

Ms NotaGoth got her licence

Ms NotaGoth announced her return to school - probably.

Rose's room is still too hard to play in - except if you're a small girl who wants to try on every dress in the bag of clothes we were given by my cousin.  3 so far tonight and counting, I think  I've seen about 10 on the floor - how many does she need?

We've failed in expanding Rose's gender stereotyping.  When Sneetch wore one of Rose's butterfly hair clips her major objection was that boys aren't allowed to wear pink!

The kitchen building has started!  We have wood and most of a wall.

The composting toilets are most of the way to completion.  The boxes are made, the containers obtained.  Now I just need to install taps and some aggie pipe for oxygenation and drainage.  Also, obtain large quantities of sawdust and sort out placement and privacy screens.

aaargh!  hot!  and work tomorrow!  aaargh!
mrsbrown: (Default)
As the source of timber I thought I had lined up doesn't seem to be coming through, here's a collection of links for alternatives;

it looks like 150mm x 150mm cypress pine is reasonably straightforward to obtain:

http://www.davidstimber.com.au/hardwood/posts.htm in Dandenong
http://www.fenceable.com.au/other_products.php 125mm square in Werribee


Golden Cypress also looks like it might be suitable, and these guys mill it to whatever size you want
http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/Add-The-Beauty-Of-Timber/New-Timber-Building-Materials.html ; in Research

also here - http://www.goldencypress.com.au/ ; in Marysville. They have unseasoned!!

These guys look like they add a considerable markup, but might be useful;
http://www.ecotimbergroup.com.au/www/315/1001127/displayarticle/1001188.html
mrsbrown: (domestic goddess)
I was going to post this list this morning and then I decided to spend my day doing some of them instead.

Today I;

emptied the back verandah
restacked the storage shelves
unpacked the Stormhold regalia crap back into its storage boxes
put a bunch of stuff to be gotten rid of into the trailer (got to get rid of remaining baby crap!)
cut shelves for the kitchen cupboards
drilled holes for the shelves
moved kitchen stuff onto the new shelves
made pumpkin soup
hemmed some of Sneetch's festival shirt that I didn't finish before or during Festival
participated in playing with the seat and handlebar height of mum's new bike
kept an enthusiastic 3 year old from killing herself climbing on my ladder
spent a lot of energy railing against mr-bassman's sense of tool/workshop organisation

The list of things to do is much longer of course, but I'm too tired to write it now.

Update

Jan. 19th, 2009 11:41 pm
mrsbrown: (domestic goddess)
Tonight was the night to start putting the kitchen back together.

It's the sad part of renovating, where you have to admit that you have more stuff than really fits into that beautiful, expansive space you had when you just finished painting and the room was empty.

Sorry [livejournal.com profile] mmy_me, I hadn't got back to you sooner. It would be great if you had some clothes for Rose at Canty Faire. I'm not sure how tall she is, and she's asleep now, but her last dress was about 80cm from shoulder to hem.

And the weather next weekend? I wish the Bureau would get it together. When I checked this arvo, Saturday had a day of 36 forecast. Now that's disappeared and the temperatures all weekend are predicted to be no higher than 24. Hooray! no fire ban!! No dying of heat prostration!! Of course that's not the forecast for Ballarat, but it seems to be fairly close to melbourne's forecast for the other days this week and there isn't a 7 day forecast available.

This morning I politely asked the person sitting next to me on the tram if he could turn down his music player. He looked a bit non-plussed, but complied. The two men on the other side of the tram (unrelated to either my neighbor or each other) told me off! Apparently, music players are the modern thing and if I have a problem I should move!! I suspect the woman sitting opposite to me turned UP her music player on purpose and ignored me when I asked her to turn it down. Next time I have a problem I think I'll make my seagull imitation noise. When they complain I'll explain that if they have a problem they should move away from me. It would be embarassing if they didn't complain about my seagull noise, but most people (even my friends) complain after the second one, so it probably won't be a problem.

Oh, and MrPeacock has been offered a place in Science at Melbourne Uni. The offer says that enrolment day is next Tuesday - do you still have to go there to enrol? 'Cos that will be difficult while he's in href="http://www.defence.gov.au/Army/artc/training.html">Kapooka doing basic training and I'm not keen to take another day off work. I wonder what subjects he wants to do? He didn't get around to telling me before he left.
mrsbrown: (domestic goddess)
Stuff that needs to be done to the kitchen (
with edits since I started this post 4 hours ago
:

finish sanding floor (mr-bassman is locked in there and will come out at 2pm when we return the sander, later: will come out at 5pm after we've been to Bunnings to buy finer grit sandpaper) - Today
edge sand with belt sander - Today
fill putty holes that didn't work - today
resand after 9pm - today

sweep, vacuum, replace dead vacuum cleaner, damp mop floor, maybe wipe down walls and ceilings to remove dust. - today
paint first, second, third coats of floor. Decide if 4th and 5th coats are required - it's a kitchen! - Today and maybe tomorrow
Put new, painted cabinets into place. Argue and bicker about the right thing to do. Monday
buy undercoat and paint for the benchtops and kickboards.Sunday
paint benchtops and kickboards. MondaySunday

eeeep! I just went down the side of my house (accessed from the front) and found a syringe and two syringe packets under my kitchen window!! Bastards!!!! Even worse, Rose followed me in bare feet before I saw the syringe!! AAArrggh!
I need to start agitating for a local injecting room.

put kitchen furniture into place and start using the kitchen.Monday!!!!!

Based on my current plans, in May we will have time to:

undercoat and paint the patches that we notices after we finished painting the ceilings and walls
paint cornice scotia and other edge finish treatments
install cornice scotia and other edge finish treatments
Sort out what additional cabinets we need and how many we can afford.
go to IKEA/bunnings and buy cabinets
put cabinets together and attach to walls.
Paint cabinet doors (sealer and one, or maybe two, coats) and attach
paint chimney
paint existing cupboards
Clean in the stove nook and tile
Install a rangehood and fan.

At which point, it will be "finished". Sometime later we will replace the existing window and move the sink.
mrsbrown: (domestic goddess)
wow!

[livejournal.com profile] mr_bassman put in a sterling day (without me) and finished both the caulking of gaps AND a coat of paint (actually, I got home just as he started painting, so I did all the roller work). He only just finished the cutting in at 11pm.

And the good news? We'll check tomorrow, but the white undercoat/sealer and one coat of Antique White USA (the choice of most, apparently) seems to be enough and a second coat of paint won't be necessary.

Of course, the achievement has gone to his head, and now he wants to sand the floor before we put the furniture back.

Oh well, it means we'll have access to the dishwasher, sink, crockery and cutlery while he hammers in the nail heads (he loves hammering). and then we'll have a more beautiful kitchen, so what's to hate?

There's no rain forecast until Friday, so I guess we have until then to sort out an alternative location for the free MDF cabinets that started this current batch of madness and are still sitting outside on our lawn (under tarps and on boards)
mrsbrown: (sca baby)
Take a look at the recipe for this cob oven.

I like the sand form for making the dome, and the fact that he mixed the cob in a mixer.

soooo much easier than doing it by hand.
mrsbrown: (sca baby)
I spent about 2 hours tonight watching Google Sketchup howto videos and here's what I've got to show for it.



The kitchen is intended to be 2m deep and 2.5m wide. Making it too small to worry the planning authorities, but hopefully big enough to satisfy the CFA to let us have a fire in it during fire season, if not total fire ban days.

The white wall just in front of the raised hearth is the ingle nook. Hopefully the smoke goes behind that into the roof space and out of the hole at the top of the gable end.

A later design will find a clever way to put an oven on one side, with the opening in the kitchen, under the inglenook.

Don't look too hard at the pictures. The inglenook is currently held up by skyhooks.

The roof tiles are unlikely to look that pretty - they might look more like these

Edited to add some stuff this morning

I forgot to mention that we could increase the depth of the building to have room for a prep table in the front, out of the weather.

Also, the firewall should probably face Northwest, to shade the occupant from the summer sun, particularly in the afternoon.

And I left out the daylight windows either side of the firewall.

The list of materials I'm imagining would be useful includes:

-bricks for the hearth (and more for the oven)
-bricks or suitable stones (not concrete block) for the firewall at the back
-withies for the inside of the wattle and daub
-mud and straw, maybe charcoal, for the daub
-trees at least 150mm diameter and 2m tall, with forks in the right place, for the corner posts
-150mm branches that are straightish for the beams; 3 x 2.5ish metres and 3 x the ultimate depth of this shack.
-roof tiles
- more free weekends - Sunday 19th October anyone?
mrsbrown: (sca baby)
I have a nifty drawing, but first some links to get you in the mood.

A kitchen should have a hearth raised above floor level, like the one in this castle kitchen


Note also the "chimney". It's a section of wall with an opening for the fireplace. The smoke goes behind it.

There's a section showing how the smoke hood might work on this page, scroll down to the heading "Firehood"


I think the fire window is pretty good, I saw one at the 1820's farm I visited in Tasmania two years ago.

Where does the smoke go after it goes out of the smoke hood. what happens at roof level?

There are some great pictures of a tudor kitchen interior here

Here's the outside of the building at the Weald and Downland Open Air Museum
http://www.wealddown.co.uk/images%20winkhurst%20move/winkhurst_1.jpg

Where's the chimney? I think the smoke comes out of the triangular dark patch at the top of the gable end wall.
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